Each pin is notched on the upper nut. Notches should be oriented towards the bow and pins tightened. The bottom nut must be very tight.

Check the outboard (lateral) pitch. To adjust lateral pitch, loosen and rotate the oarlock pin. Moving the notch towards the shell increases lateral pitch, and moving the notch away from the shell decreases lateral pitch. You will not want negative lateral pitch. Be sure to keep the bottom nut very tight each time you check the pitch.

To use Pitch Inserts, assemble the oarlock on the pin and use the white inserts to set fore and aft pitch. Adjust the oarlock pitch from 1 to 7 degrees by selecting the two inserts with the desired pitch imprinted on them. Place the inserts in opposite directions, as show in the illustration.

1. Place all rigger frames on the shell in proper locations – #1 at bow, etc. For aluminum sweep riggers, place the longer diagonal leg aft.
2. Loosely assemble the adjustable sill and roughly set the oarlock pin vertical. (By eye is fine at this point.)
3. Each pin is notched on the upper nut. Notches should be oriented towards the bow and pins tightened. You must tighten both the pinch bolt and the nut on the bottom of the pin – the bottom nut must be very tight.
4. Check the outboard (lateral) pitch. To adjust lateral pitch, rotate the oarlock pin. Moving the notch towards the shell increases lateral pitch, and moving the notch away from the shell decreases lateral pitch. You will not want lateral pitch.
5. Once the outboard pitch is satisfactory, loosen the pinch bolt enough to adjust the spread by sliding the sill in or out. Finally, set the fore and aft pitch by rotating the adjustable sill (we recommend 0 degrees). Take care not to change the spread. Tighten the pinch bolt.
6. Assemble the oarlock on the pin and use the white inserts to set fore and aft pitch.
7. Loosely attach the bowbrace at its forward location on the boat and turn the threaded adjuster until the hole at the outboard end aligns exactly with the hole in the top of the pin. Insert the top bolt and check everything for tightness including the two lock nuts on the threaded adjuster.

Use round sills for carbon wing riggers (sweep or scull), aluminum wing riggers (sweep), and aluminum standard riggers (sweep). Pocock pins are unique.

1. Place rigger frames on the shell and tighten.
2. Loosely assemble the adjustable sill and roughly set the oarlock pin vertical.
3. Orient the notch on the upper nut towards the bow and tighten.
4. Tighten the pinch bolt and the bottom nut.
5. Set the outboard pitch. Level the boat and set the pitch meter across the seat deck (from port to starboard). To adjust the outboard pitch, rotate the oarlock pin.
6. Check your work by holding the pitch meter agains the outboard side of the pin. Tighten the bottom nut.
7. Check again and reset as necessary. The bottom nut must be very tight.
8. Loosen the pinch bolt. Adjust the sill so the center of the pin meets the required spread. Lightly tighten the pinch bolt.
9. With a pencil, mark where the sill meets the casting.
10. Set the fore/aft pitch. Rotate the sill in the pinch bolt assembly until you have the desired pitch (0 degrees is recommended).
11. Make sure to keep the sillon the pencil mark denoting your desired spread.
12. Tighten the pinch bolt assembly.

1. Seat the pin. Each pin is notched on the upper nut.
2. Place the pin at the desired spread with the notch oriented towards the bow and tighten the pin. The bottom nut must be very tight in order to seat the pin.
3. Set the outboard pitch. Level the boat. Set the pitch meter across the seat deck from port to starboard.
4. To set the pitch, rotate the pin. Tighten the bottom nut and re-check the outboard pitch. Adjust as necessary. (You do not want negative lateral pitch.)
5. The bottom nut must be very tight each time you check the pitch.

Each bowbrace is made up of three separate parts:

• The Long Tube attaches to the top of the pin. It’s side specific, but is otherwise interchangeable for all boats.
• The Threaded Adjuster is interchangeable for all boats.
• The Short Tube comes in two lengths, and is either curved or flat. Curved short tubes are for standard riggers and flat short tubes are for winged boats. On eights with outboard riggers, the longer tube belongs at bow, two and stroke. All other seats use the short tube. (The longer tube is necessary to compensate for the taper of the boat.) On eights with wing riggers, the bow seat requires a short tube. All other seats use a long tube. For all other sweep boats, the longer length is appropriate, and for all sculling boats, the shorter is correct.

To set the bowbrace:

1. Loosely attach the bowbrace at its forward location on the boat.
2. Turn the threaded ajuster until the hole on the outboard end aligns exactly with the hole on the top of the pin.
3. Insert the top bolt and check everything for tightness, including the two locknuts on the threaded adjuster.

Every Pocock Racing Shell is outfitted with an easily removable fin. The fin fits into a fin box that is installed in the hull of the boat. This allows the fit to break away if it hits something, preventing significant hull damage in the process. To remove the fin:

1. Undo the fin box screw.
2. If the boat has one, turn the rudder to one side.
3. Thrust your hand on the forward edge of the fin to remove it from the fin box.

To replace the fin:

1. Place the back edge of the fin in the fin box.
2. With slight hand pressure, follow the forward edge down.
3. With the fin in place, replace the screw (3/4″ 6-32 RHMS). Be careful not to strip the screw housing.

To replace the rudder:

1. Remove the fin by undoing the fin box screw.
2. Turn the rudder to one side.
3. Thrust your hand on the forward edge of the fin to remove it from the fin box.
4. Remove the top nut on the rudder.
5. Using pliers, remove the small cotter pin that holds the steering yolk in place.
6. Remove the steering yolk.
7. The rudder shaft will now slide through the tube.
8. Replace the rudder.
9. Replace the fin by placing the back edge of it in the fin box.
10. With slight hand pressure, follow the forward edge down.
11. With the fin in place, replace the screw (3/4″ 6-32 RHMS). Be careful not to strip the screw housing.

To replace the bow ball:

1. Remove the two screws and discard the old bow ball.
2. Fill the old holes with silicone caulk.
3. Allow adequate time for the caulk to try completely.
4. Firmly push the new bow ball all the way onto the bow of the shell.
5. Drill one new pilot hole on each side of the bow ball. Offset the pilot holes so the screws do not overlap.
6. Insert screws and dented washers and tighten. Take care not to over tighten the screws.

Bow clips can usually be replaced using their original two holes. To replace the bow ball:

1. Place a drop of silicone caulk in both holes and a small bead down the underside of the new bow clip.
2. Screw the new bow clip into place. Do not over tighten the screws.
3. When the silicone has dried, carefully remove any excess with a knife or razor blade.

To replace the splash guard:

1. Remove the old splash guard.
2. Check to make sure any of the screw holes aren’t stripped.
3. If the holes are stripped, fill them with Bond-o filler.
4. Allow the filler to dry, fair the surface with sand paper, and then drill new pilot holes.
5. Place a small bead of silicone caulk along the top edge of the splash guard.
6. Screw the new splash guard into place.

Remove the old axle:

1. Use a screw driver braced with a 1.5″ high piece of hard wood to pry the axle from the bushings.
2. Make sure the opening of the plastic bushing is facing upward.

Replace the axle:

1. Seat the new axle in the plastic bushings.
2. Place a 14″ or longer piece of hard wood across both wheels of a single axle.
3. Deliver a swift, firm blow to the wood over each wheel with enough force to pop the axle into place.
4. Do not apply force directly to the axle as you might bend it.

Seat tracks can be easily adjusted or removed. The rail is attached to the seat tray in two places under the seat deck with 3/8″ nuts. To adjust the seat tracks:

1. Loosen the nuts. The track should slide freely with light pressure.
2. If the track does not slide freely, remove the nuts and take the seat track completely out of the boat. Then adjust the bolts along the bottom of the track and re-insert the track on the seat deck. Be sure to tighten the nuts before rowing.